There’s a new hum along the quieter end of Drury Lane, and its name is Town. Chef Stevie Parle’s latest venture has landed, and it feels like it’s been here forever.
Jacqui and her cockapoo, Miuccia told us about it – and we are always ready to try, review and support dog-friendly restaurants.
Step inside and you’re immediately transported—not into the London of theatre matinees and quick dinners, but into a 1960s vision of space-age glamour. Think modernist ceilings, blond wood, velvet banquettes, and leather-topped tables, all anchored by a vivid neon-green open kitchen that glows like a stage set. Burgundy 3D tiles climb the walls, adding depth and warmth. It’s a little retro, Austin Powers, but with just the right amount of restraint.
You might assume that, given the location, Town is a pre-theatre stop. You’d be wrong. This is not a place to rush. The food here deserves your time, and quite frankly, rewards it.
The menu is ingredient-led and grounded in the seasons, the kind of thoughtful cooking London food-lovers know and cherish. Daring without being fussy, it delivers dishes you genuinely want to eat.
We begin with sage leaves, deep-fried and drizzled with chilli-infused honey—light, crisp, slightly chewy, and so addictive that the plate empties far too quickly.
For starters, Jacqui orders Cornish crab, while I choose a single plump Isle of Mull scallop, bathed in smoked chilli butter. Both plates are as elegant as they are comforting.
For mains, Jacqui’s sea bass (the fish of the day) arrives perfectly cooked, while I dive into a fragrant cod and clams curry, accompanied by an Indian-spiced ghee flatbread that begs to be torn and scooped through the sauce. It’s the dish that lingers in your memory long after the plate has been cleared.
Service throughout is as polished as the food: bright, crisp, quietly attentive without ever feeling forced. And, to our delight, the team clearly love dogs, greeting them with as much enthusiasm as their human guests.
Town isn’t inexpensive—about £75 a head—but food of this quality seldom is. “It’s a bit off-grid here, but this could make the wrong end of Drury Lane very cool indeed.”
Open for just a couple of months, Town already feels like a classic. A place that has found its footing quickly, and one we’ll happily return to, time and again.
Town – 26–29 Drury Lane, London WC2
