A Journey to Christmas

It was an early morning start on December 20th as we met Ju-li and Mr. Darcy at St Pancras Station, ready to embark on an unforgettable adventure. With plenty of time to spare, we prepared for our multi-train, multi-day journey to the picturesque shores of Lake Como, Italy. Travelling with three dogs and no driver among us, the train was undoubtedly our best option.

With just a roller bag each and backpacks packed with essentials—including a stash of our dogs’ accessories and food—we set off. Free hands were a must for managing the dogs, and careful planning had ensured we were ready for the adventure ahead.

To keep the journey manageable (and enjoyable), we broke it into several stages. Along the way, we planned stops to catch our breath, explore, and reconnect with friends in different cities. It wasn’t just about reaching the destination—it was about savouring the journey itself.

LONDON – FOLKESTONE – CALAIS – PARIS : Our journey began at St Pancras Station, heading to Folkestone West. I prefer this smaller station to Folkestone Central; it’s much easier to navigate and quicker to exit. Upon arrival, our pre-booked Folkestone Taxi was ready and waiting—a relief given that our train had been delayed by half an hour. Despite the setback, we made it to the queue for the scheduled Le Shuttle crossing, only to encounter further delays due to technical issues.

When the train finally departed for the 35-minute Eurotunnel crossing, time was tight for our next connection. With just ten minutes to get from the Eurotunnel to Calais Fréthun, we arrived at the platform only to see our train to Paris pulling away. The next train wasn’t due for another three hours.

Thankfully, our Folkestone Taxi driver came to the rescue, whisking us straight to Paris in time for all our scheduled appointments. Reflecting on this leg of the journey, I’d recommend opting for a taxi door-to-door if possible, especially when traveling with two or more people to share the cost. While train travel can be efficient, delays and tight connections make it unnecessarily stressful—sometimes, a direct route is simply the better choice. And on arrival at Gare du Nord, it is a hassle to get a taxi that will take dogs.

G7 Taxi is what we used for travelling with dogs when in Paris. Even though there’s an App, you still need to call them to let them know you have dogs. And no dogs on seats. There is Uber Pet but with more than one dog, the driver might refuse to take you, as we have experienced back in April when we had four dogs! LOL!

PARIS FOR 12 HOURS : Our stay was at the charming Hotel Monte Cristo, a boutique gem nestled in the 5th Arrondissement. Named after Alexandre Dumas’s iconic novel The Count of Monte Cristo, the hotel offers an updated interpretation of what the great author’s home might have looked like if he were alive and working today.

Having stayed here before with Darcy, I was delighted to return to its inviting ambiance and beautifully curated decor.

An added convenience? A vet clinic, CLINIQUE VÉTÉRINAIRE PASCAL HARDY is located just down the street, perfectly situated for any pet-related needs, especially for travellers planning a return to the UK. They will also issue EU Pet Passports. We hadn’t known they were so close by and we had made an earlier appointment for Darcy to secure his pet passport at CLINIQUE VÉTÉRINAIRE DU DR MCCARTHY ERIC, also in the 5th arrondissement which was why we chose Hotel Monte Cristo.

That evening, when all things were ticked off the list, we headed to the dazzlingly lit Place Vendôme for a photoshoot with Rosie (@AmieAussie), capturing the magic of Paris in the holiday season.

PARIS – ZURICH – MILAN : The next morning, we boarded a four-hour train from Gare de Lyon, Paris to Zurich Hauptbahnhof before taking the next three-hour train to Milano Centrale. There was once a direct train from Paris to Milan, but a landslide last winter disrupted that route, leaving it inaccessible. As a result, we had to detour via Zurich. This detour also came with the inconvenience of changing trains and the additional task of securing tickets for the dogs specifically for the Swiss sector.

In most European countries, dogs not travelling in containers require their own tickets. Booking through the French SNCF website, we had no trouble purchasing tickets for the dogs. In Italy, dogs travel free, but for the Swiss sector, tickets must be bought in person at the train station. Unfortunately, the ticket office was jam-packed, and we simply didn’t have time to wait in line.

We decided to take our chances—and luck was on our side. The Swiss train conductor, who turned out to be a dog lover, didn’t enforce the ticket requirement. Instead, he warmly shared a photo of his own King Charles Cavalier.

MILAN: FOOD, FRIENDS, and FOND MEMORIES : Milan welcomed us with its charm and a touch of nostalgia. Though I had hoped to catch up with a few friends, the seasonal festivities and busy schedules made it tricky—much like in Paris. However, I was thrilled to finally meet Togo, our friend Victoria’s first dog. Before Togo, Victoria had adored George as if he were her when she lived in London, so meeting Togo felt like a reunion of sorts.

George, not being a fan of larger dogs, made his opinions known with plenty of barking when we met up for a photoshoot with Elena (@Pawtiqe). Despite the commotion, it was a joy to see everyone and capture some special moments together.

After braving the chilly morning of photoshoot, we warmed up with breakfast at Sant Ambroeus with Victoria and her family.

Later, we indulged in a delicious lunch at my favourite spot, Trattoria Milanese dal 1933 , a third-generation Milanese institution. If you visit, you simply must try their signature dishes: Osso Bucco, Cotoletta Milanese, or Risotto Milanese—each a testament to their culinary heritage.

For our stay, we chose Magna Pars Hotel À Parfum & Perfume Laboratory, a very dog-friendly boutique hotel, once a perfume laboratory located in the Naviglio neighbourhood. A vert white hotel and each room is named after a fragrance and in it is the fragrance. Everywhere just smelled divine!

The neighbourhood holds a special place in my heart, as it’s where I lived while working in Milan. Wandering its streets again was a heartfelt trip down memory lane, bringing back a flood of wonderful memories.

We also dined at Osteria del Binary, another traditional Milanese restaurant, a short walking distance from the hotel. And I had to have the risotto Milanese!

Taking taxis with dogs in Milan is slightly better than Paris. They are at least negotiable but still no dogs on seat. So it took a little convincing that my two small dogs can sit on my lap.

MILAN – COMO SAN GIOVANNI : It was the eve of Christmas Eve when we set off for the final leg of our journey to Lake Como. The short 30-minute train ride to Como San Giovanni was easily the most straightforward part of our trip.

CHRISTMAS AT VILLA D’ESTE, LAKE COMO : Having stayed here before during the summer and autumn months, seeing the villa adorned in festive Christmas decorations was an entirely new experience. The holiday charm transformed the already breathtaking setting into something magical, and we were simply delighted by every detail.

On top of all that, Villa d’Este is very dog-friendly.

We were able to dine with them at all the restaurants.

The only time we left the estate was to have dinner at Harry’s Bar (not related to the Harry’s Bar in Venice). A short walk from the hotel, it is actually part of Villa d’Este.

Our three days at Villa d’Este were filled with relaxation, and a sense of wonder, making it a Christmas to remember.

We had a vet visit us at the hotel to give the dogs their deworming treatment for our return to the UK. It has to be administered not more than 5 days and not less than 48 hours before crossing the borders.

But, as all good things must come to an end, it was soon time to begin our journey back home.

THE RETURN : It was a two day journey from Como S. Gionvanni – Zurich – Paris – Calais – Folkestone West – St Pancras. We stopped in Paris to break up the journey. And whilst there, I managed to meet-up with my landlords from Milan! We’ve been trying to meet up in the past year after we last saw each other more than 25 years ago.

That was an unexpected bonus.

Travelling with dogs has always been a part of my adventures. Over the years, we’ve faced a variety of challenges and learned how to navigate them with patience and flexibility.

This journey spanned 11 train rides and countless taxis, with a few mishaps along the way. But like the Three Wise Men who journeyed afar following the Star in the East, George, Lulu, and Darcy carried on admirably, embracing the adventure and we were rewarded by the splendid lights at Villa d’este. And they definitely enjoyed the Italian treats as much as we did—perhaps even more!

It was no small feat—a long and complex journey for a debut international trip—but both Ju-li and Darcy rose to the occasion, proving that with preparation and an adventurous spirit, even the most ambitious journeys are possible. Here’s Ju-li’s impression:

I had never attempted to travel abroad with my dog, Darcy before. The reason being that he is just over 9 kg. and therefore too big to fly cabin. Little did I know how many other non-flight options were available until my friend May suggested an adventure to Lake Como for Christmas.  

As May and I planned our trip we discussed having a flexible mindset. Travelling mainly by trains and with its many interconnections meant giving ourselves time and being patient. We faced several travel disruptions right from the start of our trip and I was full of anxiety over the unknown and about getting to Paris in time for Darcy’s European pet passport appointment. What helped the most was May’s calm attitude and the ability to work out what our alternative options were when things didn’t go exactly to plan. 

Travelling with George and Lulu was such a joy. Darcy followed their lead, and was soon a well seasoned traveller too, behaving impeccably on the trains and in restaurants. I couldn’t have been more proud of Darcy and was so thankful to have been able to share these experiences with him. I don’t think I’ll ever forget the Christmas lights and beauty of Villa d’Este in Como.

There were so many learnings about logistics when travelling with dogs, but the main take away from the trip was mindset. Things inevitably did go wrong despite all our best planning, but having a mindset that things will work out eventually was key. Would I do it all over again? Well the answer is we are already thinking about where to go for Christmas 2025.

Things I would do differently and frequently asked questions:

• How do the dogs manage on these long journeys?
  • If your dogs can sleep through the night, they can hold. The longest train journey would have been about 8 hours if we had gone direct from Paris to Milan but as it turned out, the longest part of the journey was only 4 hours.
• What other ways can you get over to Europe if you are not driving?
  • There is Stenaline Ferry that leaves from Harwich International to Hoek van Holland. There are pet-friendly cabins but must be booked way in advance as they are popular. Dogs cannot leave the cabin during the journey. However, there is an outdoor deck where dogs can release themselves.
  • Or there is a ferry crossing to Santander, Spain but that is even more popular and booked out months in advance.
• What’s the difference between Eurostar and Eurotunnel?
  • Eurotunnel is the route taken by all trains crossing the Channel
  • Le Shuttle is the service that allow four-wheeled vehicles to cross over, therefore your dogs can go with you.
  • Eurostar currently does not allow dogs in their crossing, but Assistant Dogs can apply for permission to travel with their owners. A seat next to travelling passenger is designated for the dog but they are to sit on the floor.
• Folkestone Taxi is one of the most frequently used companies that have taken dogs across on the Eurotunnel, accompanied by their owners. Their drivers are knowledgeable and helpful. Note for myself: I much prefer the door-to-door service from London to Paris to cut down the stress of train delays, connecting trains and the hassle of getting a taxi at Gare du Nord that takes dogs. Especially if you are sharing the cost with anther passenger.
• Dog Fares. Do we have to pay for dogs to travel?
  • Crossing on Le Shuttle – Yes
  • Trains in Europe – depends on the country. Dogs in carriers are usually exempt.
• Travel Documents – After Brexit, we had to get Health Certificates for Animals (HCA) from the UK vets to travel abroad – which were costly. Back then, it wasn’t easy to find a European vet who would issue EU passports without local residency, some countries more than others. These days, most vets are happy to issue an EU passport.
• Feeding while on the road – As we mostly feed raw, it would not have been possible to bring that with us. That is why we alternate our feeding at home – from Honey’s Raw to James & Ella’s freeze-dried raw – so when we are on the road, we use freeze-dried. And of course, there’s the odd sausage at breakfast, the berries and carrots along the way.
• Taking your time – We were away for a total of eight days which was a good amount of time. We could have stopped over whenever we needed to change trains to slow down the pace and that way we needn’t worry about delays and missing connections. The only timing we had to keep in mind was to return to the UK not more than five days after the deworming treatment.

Please feel free to ask any further questions. It is not everyone’s cup of tea to travel but we do things for different reasons.