Zermatt: A Long-Awaited Journey Beneath the Matterhorn
Some places live in your imagination long before you ever set foot in them. For me, Zermatt was one of those — a dream destination I’d pictured so vividly that I could almost hear the crunch of snow under my boots and feel the stillness of the mountains in the air.
It had been on my bucket list for years, a trip I had always meant to take with Darcy. We had plans to go in early 2022 — quiet plans filled with daydreams rather than tickets — to wander the car-free streets and finally see the mountain I’d admired in photographs for so long. But then Macron closed down France, and like so many others, those plans quietly disappeared. Not long after, my beautiful girl Darcy passed away, and with her, the dream of sharing Zermatt seemed to fade too.
For a long time, I couldn’t imagine going without her. Zermatt became a kind of emotional landmark — a symbol of all that was lost and postponed. But as time passed, I knew Darcy would have wanted me to go. And so, this year, I finally made the journey — this time with George, trotting happily beside me, tail wagging, eyes bright with adventure.
Let’s be honest — the Matterhorn is why you come to Zermatt.
You can see it in pictures a thousand times, printed on chocolate boxes and postcards, but nothing prepares you for seeing it in real life. The first glimpse stops you in your tracks. It rises sharply and unapologetically from the landscape, impossibly geometric, almost unreal — a mountain that feels less like nature and more like a symbol.
What makes the Matterhorn so captivating isn’t just its shape, but its presence. It dominates the skyline, yet never feels overpowering. It changes constantly — glowing pink at sunrise, crisp and commanding in the midday light, and moody and mysterious as clouds drift across its peak. No two moments look the same, and somehow, you never tire of looking at it.
Standing beneath it, with George at my feet and the cold alpine air filling my lungs, I felt a strange mix of awe and calm. This was the mountain I’d waited years to see — the one Darcy should have seen too. In that moment, it felt like the journey had finally completed itself.
What Makes Zermatt So Special
Zermatt is more than just a mountain village; it’s a state of mind. Nestled at the base of the Matterhorn, it feels almost otherworldly — a place where time slows down, and nature commands your full attention. The air is so clean it almost sparkles, and the absence of cars gives the whole town a sense of calm that’s increasingly rare. You hear the soft hum of electric taxis as they sweep the streets picking up tourists.
Everywhere you look, there’s a postcard view: wooden chalets with carved balconies, snow-dusted rooftops, and the faint scent of melted cheese from fondue pots drifting through the evening air. Zermatt has a way of making you feel both small and deeply alive — humbled by the vastness of the mountains, yet comforted by the warmth of its people and traditions.
From the Gornergrat Railway and its breathtaking views to peaceful walks along snow-dusted paths, every moment in Zermatt feels somehow heightened — as if the mountains themselves are whispering that you’re exactly where you’re meant to be.
A Journey of the Heart
As I sat at Riffleberg, taking in the majestic view of the Matterhorn, I thought of Darcy often. She would have adored it here — the snow, the quiet magic of it all. In many ways, I felt she was with us: in the quiet stillness of the snow-covered mountains where she would have loved to rub her face in it.
Sometimes the journeys we delay become the ones that mean the most. Visiting Zermatt wasn’t just about ticking off a bucket list — it was about keeping a promise, honouring a memory, and making new ones in the process.
Darcy may not have made it here in body, but she was certainly here in spirit — and somehow, that made the long-awaited journey all the more beautiful.
If You Go
How to book: I met Beatrice of Paws on Train a few years ago when she was working at an agency that I had used to book our lengthy train journeys across Europe. Since then, she has founded her own agency, helping create cost-effective yet luxurious holidays for UK pet owners who want to experience the comfort of ‘slow travel’ and explore beautiful destinations in Switzerland, Italy, or France alongside their dogs. I cannot recommend her service enough.
Where we stayed:
⭐️ Hotel Tradition Julen – a cosy, family-run gem that captures everything Zermatt stands for — alpine charm, hospitality, and a touch of understated luxury. With its wooden beams, flickering fireplaces, and hearty Valais cuisine, it felt like the perfect place to pause and take in everything I’d imagined for so long.
We had a balcony room with a view of the Matterhorn.
As for their newly installed stainless-steel pool, sleek and mirror-like, amplifying the light and giving the water an inky, jewel-toned depth. It feels modern and precise, almost sculptural — a striking contrast to the warm timber walls that wrap the space.
Suspended above the water, hand-blown crystal forms hang from the ceiling like fragments of ice frozen mid-fall, catching and refracting the light so the space glows with a cool, almost glacial shimmer.
However, the next time back, I would love to stay up in the mountain at Hotel Rifflealp 2222 with a direct view of the Matterhorn. This is where our photos were taken by local photographer, Enric of Zermatt Photography.
Getting There:
Zermatt is famously car-free, so you’ll arrive by train from Täsch, a short 12-minute ride that winds through dramatic mountain scenery. Electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages handle local transport within the village.
Things to Do:
- Take the Gornergrat Railway for panoramic Matterhorn views.
- Stroll through the old village (Hinterdorf), where wooden chalets date back to the 16th century.
- Visit the Matterhorn Museum for a glimpse of the mountaineering legends who made Zermatt famous.
- Enjoy a scenic walk — dogs are welcome on many routes.
When to Visit:
Zermatt is magical year-round — snowy and cosy in winter, lush and green in summer. If you visit in spring or autumn, you’ll find fewer crowds and the same breathtaking views.
One Response
A few years I went on a European skiing vacation in Chamonix in France, and visited Geneva during part of a day, I just looked up Zermatt on map. Zermatt appears to be closer to to Chamonix than Geneva. Didn’t know that before. I walked around Geneva. I recall lots of clocks there. Don’t recall seeing any dogs.
I skied both in Italy and France. First time I had skied in Europe . Was Great! Great views of the Matterhorn from Chamonix. Did you ski while in Switzerland?
How was the food in Zermatt?
Maybe I’ll visit Zermatt sometime. Is it very dog friendly?
Very good photos!